2005 Dodge Neon. Low fuel pressure 5%PSI. Picked on up at the wreckers. Bench Tested it with water and it worked perfectly. Got 60 PSI Put it...

2005 Dodge Neon.

Low fuel pressure 5%PSI. Picked on up at the wreckers. Bench Tested it with water and it worked perfectly. Got 60 PSI Put it in the vehicle and was only 14 PSI. Did everything possible. Primed it etc. Lots of gas. The took it out and bench pressed it again. 60 PSI. While I was at it I tested my original one that did not work in the car and it too was 60 PSI. Put both of them in the car and night on would work. Between 7 and 14 PSI.

Thought it might be the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Could not find out how to test them. However when I blow air in by mouth. Both of them let a small amount of air to through. They are exactly same in every way.

The fuel pressue regulator has only one outlet.  Gasoline.

Where do I fine the return line on the pressure reguator to test it.

Mel.

Phoned Lordco for the price on a fuel filter on my 2005 Dodge Neon 2 liter SX.

They said that they have no listing for one.

The fuel filter (square attacted to the bottom of the pump) cleaned it.  Looks and acts Like new.  When I bow thru the top there is no restriction;

Mel.

Did you mean the gasoline line back to the tank?

Not to the return line from the Pressure Regulator.

Mel.

Good evening, George;

Here I go!

On page 4-3 of the HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL.  It states "There is no fuel return line between the fuel rail and the fuel tank."

Same page.  "There is no external fuel filter."

Page 4-5 It shows the Fuel filter pressure regulator.  "There are only 3 ports.  1. fuel pumped out of tank. (Bottom of regulator.) 2. one plug in for the sending unit and 3, the fuel outlet to the motor.  That's it.

I do not think it is the fuel pressure filter regulator.  The two I have work out of the tank.  Pressur 60 PSI.  In the car varies from 7 to 14% PSI.

What I have done so far.

Cleaned thoroughly the fuel filter at the bottom of the fuel pump.  Square shaped.

Checked the fuel pump relay and fuse.

Checked for spark,

There is 1/4 tank of gas. 

The manual states that there is a fuel rail test port on the right end of the fuel rail.  Twist the glack cap off and test.  There is no fuel rail test port. Supposed to be on the end.  Turn the black plastic cover off and test.  No where to be found.  Phoned the Dodge dealere and he does not know. A mechanic will get gack to me tomorrow.  As you know I have taken the gas tank in and out 3 times.

Both fuel pumps and fuel pressure filter regulators operate the same.  Test thm on the bendh and gert a steady 60 PSI.

Install them in the car and get 7 to 14 PSI, fluckulating.  

A week ago I had the Dodge Cryler dealership scop my car.  The told  me that it was the puel pump.  Only 5 LBs. PSI.

There were no other codes.  Their are still no codes showing.

I hope that you can come up with an answer.  The Doge Dealersip and another mechanic could not fined the problem

All my cards are in your hands.

Can you help me?  Ready to do anything you suggest.  Read, eager and able.

Thanks'

Mel.

bp

George;

A friend of mine had the same problem.  No fuel getting to the motor.  The mechanic uncapped the fuel rail test point.  Let out air and the car was good as new.

I will try anything.

Hopefully tomorrw morning. The mechanic a the Dodge Dealer will show me where it is.  If they have one.

Mel.

Good evening, George;

The fuel pump works perfectly on Direct Power form another battery.  Will hold at 60 PSI

It will not start when I plug in the cars power.

When I take a PSI test it goes from about 7 to 10 as high as 14 PSI and will holed that prssure.  but won't start.

It appeaars the pump is not getting enought power from the cars plug in.

WHEN THE PUMP IS ON DIRECT CURRENT FROM ANOTHER BATTERY .  EVERYTHING WORKS FINE.  It runs perfectly.

Checked the fuses, relay switch.  No frayed wires.  Everything looks good.  Did not test the DME as I could not find it.

We are getting close.

Mel.

George.

Will do as you directed.

Just to let you know.  I am using a relively new batter.  It is hooked up to the car at all times.  It has a quick start mode.  After 90 seconds it is ready to start the car.  The battery is always fully charged.  The charger signals that the battery is fully charged and shuts down.  The voltage is always at or above 12.6 Volts.

Mel.

Good morning, George.

There is less than 1 amp going through the pump.

How much should there be?

Mel.

Good evening, George.

Have done everything I was asked to do.

Now I can start the car and it runs for 3 seconds and then shuts off

I tried all three computized keys and they all do the same thing.

It is like I am using a pilot key.  (Not Comperterized)

The Dodge Dealership say the car has forgot the  signal coming from the keys.

They must be computersized again.

I will have to have the car towed to there location.  Then pay 80.00 to reset the  keys.

He said the the moderal or the receiving unit  is not recognizing the signal.

What can I do to correct the propbem?

Mel.

If I use my computerized key it will run for about 3 seconds.  There is a red light on on the dashboard.

If I use my pilot key it does the exact same thing. There is no red light on the dashboard.

We are getting closer.

Tomorrow we will run a wire direct from the fuel pump to the pin opening on the relay.  It will be a fused line.

See what happens.

Any more ideas?

Mel.

Hi George;

Bought the key at Canadian Tire.  Made it off of the original computerized key.

The mechanic and I have done a number of things to the car.  When he returns after his supper we will do something else.

He then, will tell you what we have done so far.

Mel.

No George;

He is not a mechanic.  He isen't even a back yard mechinic.  

He works for BC Tel. and he can deciper blueprints.  He is an electrical engineer.

Give him a scemataic and we can so something with it.

He is not coming back tonight.

 Will talk you tomorrow.

Mel.

Good morning, George.

Late last night we got it running.

It was a combination of Ground wires that caused the problem.

The right rear light had two wrong insulation.

Also the ground from the Starter to the body of the car was corroded.

Did not notice it was not grounded properly.  It was right.  Removed, clean it up and away we go.

The good part of this is.

Everything else is working perfectly.  Checked from the front of the car to the rear. 

Hopefully I will not have anymore problems.

Thanks George.

Mel.