I have an overheating problem on a 2008 ford Edge with a 3.5 liter engine
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I have an overheating problem on a 2008 ford Edge with a 3.5 liter engine
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I want to make sure you are very familiar with Ford motors, especially the 3.5liter
Hi Jim,
Common overheating issue is a clogged/blocked radiator, cooling fans not working or a defective water pump.
Can you see that the rasdiator fans working when the engine reached the operating temp?
Yes, i am familiar with gas/diesel engines 1.6-5.0 liter engine.
I am a mechanic myself, but have left the industry for quite some time. I found a 2008 Ford Edge Limited online. The person said that it was his wifes car and it overheated and he took it to a mechanic and it he was told it had a bad water pump. It runs great. The check engine light was on when I picked it up
I checked the oil and it was not milky and the level was normal
so I bought the car at a very reduced price not knowing what I am getting into
I took it to a very good mechanic friend of mine who owns a shop and has all of the analyzers to check it out.
He read the codes
code 1 ) P0480 cooling fan #1 failure
code 2 ) P01285 cylinder head overtemp
code 3 ) P01299 cylinder head overtemp fail safe mode
to check if the water pump is defective, remove the radiator cap the turn on the engine. Make sure that engine is cold when you do this. Notice the water inside the radiator if they are running. The water inside the radiator should be running or flowing, meaning the water pump is good. If the water is stan still then its a defective water pump.
I do not have the car here at my house, it is at his shop
On a Ford 3.5 liter the water pump is chain driven and it is located inside of the timing cover, about a 14 hour job to replace a water pump
The water pump is functioning just fine but when the seal goes bad it leaks antifreeze in the oil
but I dont see any signs of anti freeze in the oil
I am thinking maybe the cooling fan #1 went bad and the engine overheated
My question is : If the engine overheats and goes into the fail safe mode, what normally happens?
before you replace it check it first by following the procedure that i mentioned. for codes P01285 and P01299 its pointing to the Cylinder head temperature sensor that is shorted or defective. that one needs to be replacced.for error P0480 its pointing for a defective fan relay and that needs to replaced also.
The engine will die as a fail safe mode when it reached to a certain temperature limit. your engine might not died because the temp sensors are not working,
My mechanic friend said he did a test of the antifreeze with some sort of test strip to find out if there were signs of exhaust gases in the coolant and there was exhaust gases present in the antifreeze
for as long you are not getting milkshake thing in the engine oil then that means the engubne gaskets are still good. but you really need to address the fault codes and have the parts replaced immediately.
The person who I bought the car from, said the engine did indeed over heat and the temp gauge was pegged. So I think the sensors are working correctly.
My mechanic was thinking maybe the head gasket went bad, What are your thoughts on that?
He is going to check the cooling fans out first of course. Then replace the fan relay or the fans if needed , then see if it overheats
Start first by inspecting the water flow inside the radiator. That will tells you immediately if the water pump is defective. Next is the fan relay and the temp sensor. Replace it and observe the issue again.
If the head gaskets are blown then you will see a milkshake thing on the oil. That means that the oil and the coolant are alraed mixed up. If the engine oil are still good then you dont have to worry about the gaskets.
Since your friend has engine analyzer you can ask him to reset the fault codes. If the code went back after resetting then it means that the parts mentioned are defective and needs to br replaced.
The engine oil looks great, he is changing the oil anyway while he does the testing. The car purrs like a kitten leading me to believe that there should not be anything major wrong with the engine.
The past owner took it to a garage to determine why it overheated and that mechanic said it was a bad watr pump. I just dont know how good of a mechanic he took it to.
I know my mechanic is one of the best with all of the latest equipment, but I wanted to pick another Ford specilizied mechanic that works a lot on Fords and is familiar with what happens to an engine after it gets hot enough to set the 1299 fail safe code
He will reset the codes tomorrow and run some tests. I wasnt sure what the exhaust gas test was on the coolant
Hmmmm... the only thing that you will have exhaust gas in the coolant if the head gasket is blown and you will notice also that the oil is turning into a milkshake. Ask you mechanic to run a combustion leak test to verify that issue again. For as long as the engine oil is good then ou dont have to worry about the gasket.
His analyzer is the snap on analyzer that can get deep into the Ford electronics. But this problem is probably just getting back to engine cooling basics. I overheated many an engine in my day but they were all cast iron blocks, now they are all aluminum and I am not as familiar with how they handle overheating
That makes me feel a little better. The car has 140,000 miles on it so it might be a decision to replace the engine if it turns out to be something major like a head gasket or even a water pump. I am hoping that it may be just a fan relay.
The problem is just a basic cooling system. But of course you need to be particular with the parts that you are going to replace. Like what I have mentioned, start first by inspecting the flow of the water inside the radiator then replace the parts showing in the fault codes then observe the issue. I have a feeling that the issue is the cooling fan relay only because the fan might not be working as it should to cool down the engine.
I think you are right with the cooling fan relay. Because that was the first code set. Then the overheating codes came in. so that makes the most sense to me
Yeah because the analyzer tool will tells you also if the water pump is the problem. The codes that it was throwing is basic and can e replaced in less that an hour.
Good luck Jim.
Do you have further questions?
Without speaking to his mechanic, I dont know his reasoning for saying it was a water pump. I dont know if he had the state of the art analyzers or was just using a code reader
That might be a reader only and cannot perform a reset. Theres this analyzer in autozone that they use that can reset/clear the codes.
I hope I was able to shed a light on your issue.
Do you have furher questions Jim?
I only know he paid a mechanic $97 to check it out so it was not at an auto zone but it was in DC and I have not found quality mechanics in the area when I used to live there. But that is very subjective.
I just hate going on others mechanics diagnostics,
I would rather get three good opinions then make a final decision.
Thanks for your help
Dear Jim, It was a pleasure helping you with your Ford issue today. Here is a summary of the resolution.
Issue identified : vehicle is overheating
Solution Implemented : chat with cx and told him to observe the water flow inside the radiator for possible water pump issue. told him also to check the fan relays since the vehicle is giving fault codes about the fan rela and temperature sensor. Told cx to tr to have the fault codes reset first and see if it will clear out the error and if errors came back then he really needs to replace the parts. cx has no further questions. answer accepted.
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Kevin
Ford Mechanic
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