Car sat seven years. Been driving 3 months. Let run low on gas. Now starts missing and dies. Let sit 5-10 minutes and starts, runs fine few miles?

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Car sat seven years. Been driving 3 months. Let run low on gas. Now starts missing and dies. Let sit 5-10 minutes and starts, runs fine few miles?

Last updated
Abe Pastor
Dodge Mechanic

Hello and welcome to ExpertHelp.com! My name is Abe Pastor and I'm going to do everything in my power to answer your question to your full satisfaction!

Before we get started, I want to remind you ExpertHelp.com is an independent professional support company. We are not associated with Dodge nor are we paid to provide support on their behalf. However, we have helped hundreds of customers with similar questions and believe we can help you too. OK, let’s get started! :)

I’m available to chat now. Please let me know that you are ready by posting a response. I’ll leave my chat session open for the next 15 minutes or so and wait for your reply. If I don’t catch you this time, please respond with a few times (including your timezone) that work best for you and we can connect then.

Posted
Abe Pastor
Dodge Mechanic

Hi Margie,

Thanks for getting in touch with  ExpertHelp.com and sorry to hear about your car problem.  When your car engine starts but stops afterwards, whether immediately or after a few minutes or a few miles, there could be one or more specific systems or components behind the failure.

For example:

  • the ignition or injection system
  • a low idle speed in need of adjustment
  • a maladjusted carburetor
  • vacuum leaks
  • one or more bad sensors

To make matters worse, stalling may happen under one or more operating conditions. For example, the engine may:

  • stall as soon as it starts
  • stall during idle
  • stall when warm
  • stall intermittently under any condition

The conditions associated with your stalling problem will give us clues as to what systems or components are causing your problem. By the way just to verify, are you getting the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT status? 

The best way to start our diagnostic is to identify, when possible, the conditions under which the stalling occurs, and focus our attention on those systems or components associated with the failure under that particular condition.

Can you please provide me which of the symptoms below are closest to your car problem. 

You can choose and provide me with 1 or more of the symptoms below:

  1. If Your Engine Stops Immediately After It Starts
  2. If the Engine Stalls at Idle
  3. If the Engine Stalls at Idle Unless You Press the Accelerator
  4. If the Engine Starts When Cold but Stops When Warm
  5. If the Engine Stalls Intermittently

You also mentioned youve been running your car low on gas.  When there's not enough gas in the tank, the fuel pump doesn't get the same level of protection as it would otherwise. If you run the car low on fuel consistently, you can wear out the fuel pump prematurely, over-stressing it and making it hotter. The caveat here is that it's more likely to happen if you do this over a longer period of time. The conventional wisdom was that you got rust and other sediment at the bottom of the fuel tank.  With metal fuel tanks, this was a possibility. What we would be more concerned about is filing up at gas stations where the fuel storage tanks are low. If you do this, you're more likely to get some of the water and crud at the bottom of the tank. How can you tell if a gas station is running low? If the fuel pump dispenses at an usually slow pace thus resulting to Tank curd.

NOTE: Gas in the tank also keeps the fuel pump cool. Low fuel levels can mean a hotter fuel pump too. It all goes back to shorter fuel pump life. The fuel pump has the function of pumping fuel. It's a precise piece of machinery that gets its lubrication from the gasoline fuel. 

The conditions associated with your stalling problem will help us get better clues as to what systems or components are causing your problem. Please provide me with all the information needed above by replying to this message. I will be waiting for your response. Thanks.

 

Posted
Abe Pastor
Dodge Mechanic

Hi Margie,

How's your day? I'm here to do a follow up on your question regarding with the issue with your car. I already sent you an answer below. If you havent checked my answer yet, please scroll down this page to view it. I will be waiting for your response thanks.

Posted
Customer

5

Posted
Abe Pastor
Dodge Mechanic

Hi Margie,

Thanks for replying. I can see that the problem is with the Engine Stalls Intermittently. Under a variety of conditions, suspect these components:

A Bad Camshaft Position Sensor

A bad camshaft position (CMP) sensor can produce different types of symptoms and cause the engine to stall immediately after starting or intermittently.

A bad camshaft sensor is likely to trigger the check engine light (CEL).

Even if you don't see the CEL illuminate, scan the computer memory for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Common bad camshaft DTCs range from P0340 to P0344.

This is a generic powertrain diagnostic trouble code (DTC), which means it covers all makes/models starting around 2003. The code seems more common on Dodge, Chrysler, Ford, Honda, Jeep, BMW, and Acura vehicles, but any make vehicle can be affected. Specific troubleshooting steps will vary depending on the vehicle.

Read more at: P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Intermittent

Consult your vehicle repair manual to locate and test the camshaft sensor, if necessary.

I. Misfires

Engine misfires are another cause for an engine to stall. Misfires make popping sounds and can cause engine to jerk or vibrate. Other symptoms include:

  • increased emissions
  • increased fuel consumption
  • difficulty starting
  • stalling

If you've noticed engine misfires, this might be the cause for the engine to stall.

A misfire usually happens because of:

  • a component failure in the ignition system (including abnormal ignition timing advance),
  • problems in the fuel system,
  • vacuum leaks,
  • compression drop in one or more cylinders, or
  • problems with key valves or sensors the car computer uses to calculate the correct air-fuel ratio.

Misfires due to the absence of spark—as opposed to the absence of fuel—are particularly worrisome because the unburned fuel may find its way into the exhaust system and catalytic converter.

If this happens, the raw fuel will gradually destroy the converter; hence the need to fix the problem as soon as possible. On most modern vehicles, the Check Engine Light (CEL) or Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) will begin to flash if a misfire threatens to damage your catalytic converter.

TIP: Check this other helpful article to help you diagnose the source of the misfire.

II. Clogged air filter

You can remove the air filter and check it. Air filters trap dirt and dust from the stream of air flowing into the intake manifold. To check the filter:

  1. Remove it from its housing.
  2. Place the filter against the sun or a good source of light.
  3. If the light can barely get through the filter element, or not at all, the filter is clogged and preventing proper air flow into the engine, causing it to stall.

III. Vacuum Leaks

An engine stalling issue can also come from a vacuum leak problem.

A vacuum leak can upset sensors or actuators that depend on vacuum for operation: for example, the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve or mass air flow (MAF) sensor. The leak can happen because of loose or damaged hoses or gaskets.

Testing one of these sensors requires checking the vacuum hose, electrical connection and wires, and testing the sensor itself. Consult your vehicle repair manual. On a MAF sensor, check for a dirty sensing element. You can clean the sensing element using MAF sensor cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Follow the product instructions when using this type of cleaner.

Vacuum leaks usually make a hissing sound but you may need a mechanics stethoscope or a length of hose to listen and locate potential vacuum leaks.

  • Check that all vacuum hoses are properly connected.
  • Check the condition of each hose.
  • Use the stethoscope or length of hose to listen for leaks along the vacuum hose and connections.
  • Trace each hose with your hand to feel for potential damage: soften, harden or irregular spots.
  • Check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold gasket and throttle body as well.

Important: You want to make an accurate diagnosis as soon as possible. Making a diagnosis can be hard, especially when you don't have much experience in car repair and the source of the problem can be in one of several systems. You might need assistance from a professional to physically check the engine but just in case. Use the strategies outlined in this guide. They'll help you repair your car faster by having you concentrate on those systems more likely to give you trouble.

I hope I was helpful in providing you with the details regarding the symptoms of your car. Rest assure that this answer will give you knowledge regarding the problem  and how to resolve it. Please let me know if you have any additional questions or if you If you are already satisfied with my assistance, please let me know by replying to this message. I will be waiting for your response. Cheers!

Posted

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