kenmore mod 110 2130 he washer, will not spin out, unless I drain out the couple of gallons of water then will resart, spin and drain, can put...

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Hi Kevin,

The absolute thing to do to your washing machine that will not spin or drain is to perform a “Master Reset” to the washer. This should be completed before taking off parts or removing panels to make sure the computer control is not at fault. 

First Steps to Try:

To perform the Master Reset, carefully unplug the washing machine from the power outlet and leave it unplugged for one minute. After one minute is up, plug the washer cord back into the wall. Next, open and close the door of the washing machine 6 times within 12 seconds to send a “reset” signal to all the components. (This is a common fix that many appliance repair mechanics use – it works on about 50% of all washing machines.) Once the reset has been completed set the washer to do a small load with no clothes in the washer. See if the washer goes through with the cycle as normal. If the washer performs correctly, then it has been reset and is fixed. If not Please let me know we may need to provide more troubleshooting to isolate the problem Please leave a message whenever you are already available. Thank you.

Hi kevin,

Have you seen my previous message? I sent you a message on some steps that might fix the problem. Please scroll down this page for the previous chat message with the steps and let me know if it needs further troubleshooting. Thank you.

Thanks for replying. Let me know what happerns. I'll be standing by. Thanks.

So it means that the water needs draining first correct?  Something might be caught up on the drain pump. If the washer won't drain water the drain pump might be defective. It's also common for a small sock or other article of clothing to get caught in the drain pump or in the drain hose. Have you already checked the drain pump for something stuck inside?

To do the next steps you may need to remove the hoses from the pump in order to remove the article of clothing. Keep in mind that any water in the washer will pour out of the hoses when removed. You also need to unplug the machine before doing this. Do you have experience in opening up the washer?

The pump should also have a belt. The pump belt might have broken or might have worn out. This can also be the issue since the pump is cleared out. Were you able to check the belt if it shows signs of excessive wear?

Thank you for clarifying. let me check on that. There might be other parts that needs to be checked first. By the way the problem is when it stops the cycle it just hums and will not spin and you have to manually drain it first. Is that correct?

I'm thinking of the Lid switch assembly as the problem. The lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Have you tried testing it just to be sure before moving to the other parts?

Cause looking at the situation after the cycle it doesnt go to darain unless you manually drain it. If the washer won't drain the lid switch assembly might be defective. I noticed some people usually bypass the switch to test if it spins out after the wash cycle.

Once the switch is located and removed from the washer, jump the wires to bypass the switch. You need to unplug the washer first and only do this if you dont have a tester for testing the switch for continuity. Once the test is done and you still have the same problem then you can check the Coin trap. The coin trap may be clogged. This washer is equipped with a device near the water pump called a coin trap and I think thats the one you were referring to a while ago. The purpose of this device is to trap any foreign materials that make their way down the drain. Normally, the coin trap can be accessed through an access panel. It is normally easy to clean out.

Could be a part of the pump itself. Nothing bad on checking on that too just in case its not properly connected. But I still would suggest checking out the Lid switch first just in case if you still havent. 

A broken lid switch also wont click when you try pressing it a little bit down so doing that will also give you a clue if you need to check it for continuity tests. Let me know what happens. Thanks

Please take your time on doing this. Just leave me a message if youre done. I will just put in more information on what else to check on my next message just in case the problem still persists.

Kevin,

Here are the steps to Kenmore Bypass Washer Lid Switch on this video: Just click on the link below

Click in this Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8rrZIxAgWQ

If the Lid switch has been tested and isolated from the cause ofthe problem, here are other Causes and Conditions that also contributes to the problem.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly

If the washer won't drain the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Drain Hose

If the washer won't drain water check the drain hose. Be sure the hose did not get kinked behind the washer. Also, remove the hose from the pump and check it for obstructions.

Coin Trap

If the washer won't drain the coin trap may be clogged. This washer is equipped with a device near the water pump called a coin trap. The purpose of this device is to trap any foreign materials that make their way down the drain. Normally, the coin trap can be accessed through an access panel. It is designed with the homeowner in mind and is normally easy to clean out.

Drive Belt

If the washer won't drain, should check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't drain properly.

Let me know if this helps and take your time. Just leave a message once you have done all the tests and checking on the parts mentioned. I will be doing my best to reply once I check back on your response. Thanks.

Hi Kevin,

I'm doing a follow up regarding your Kenmore question. Has the problem been resolved already? Please let me know. I will be waiting for your response. Thank you.

Those videos were just references so youll have an idea on how to somehow bypass the lid switch to check if the machine problem will be fixed. Have already successfully bypassed the switch?

How many wires are on your lid switch and what are the colors?

The booklet would be very helpful and I understand. We can pause this conversation for now please consult the book just in case you need reference. Just give me a message here whenever you have time to do this. I will also be doing a follow up after 48 hours regarding the status of the machine. Thank you and have a good holiday.

Abe

Youre welcome Kevin, I will just post it on my next message. Make sure that the part that youre looking at right now is the LID switch and not a different part. I will gather some information on this and post another message once information has been prepared. Appreciate your patience. Thanks

Hi Kevin,

Can you double check the model number of your Washer from the booklet. Washers usally have 11 digits for the model numbers and you provided only 110.2130. Can you check for the other numbers please ? 110.2130XXXX should be the correct format and XXXX are the missing numbers. This way I can check for the correct LID switch assembly on your particular models. You may also be referring to the door lock which has 4 wires in it. 

The door strike is not repairable—if it is broken, you must replace it but this part may not be responsible for the issue. Depending on the model number it can be the pump since you mentioned humming after the cycle. If the drain pump is clear of obstructions, but is still noisy during the drain cycle that could be the reason. Please let me know the exact model number so we can properly isolate the issue. You can reply to me whenever your available. I will be in touch once I get the details. Thanks

Hi Kevin,

Thanks for your patience. How's the weather there? Done some study on the situation and might have found the answer to the issue. I would like to rule out the switch here and look closer to the pump assembly itself. A simple test on the switch to find out if its working is setting the machine to spin and pressing the switch on the washer to check if it spins. I Also looking at the previous messages you mentioned that humming occurs after the wash cycle.  A humming noise when the washer is full of water is a common symptom of a failing pump.

In some cases, you can repair the pump by clearing it of debris including the hose or checking the impeller blades making sure they are not broken. I understand that this already have been checked. You also mentioned a box right next to the pump. You may be referring to this one:

This is a part of the pump and its where the wire is attached to. Fixing wiring failures by checking continuity would help identify the pumps problem. Next should be checking or replacing the seal just in case since the pump's bearing can seize, the seal can fail  break and the propeller may still be easily rotated by hand. The belt on a belt-driven pumps can break, and the pulley can shear off. Check if the pump has a belt inside and not the belt from the main motor that spins the tub which is different. From the looks of it after the cycle the pump tries to drain the water however wont be able to since the motor where the belt is attached may have gone bad which explains the humming.

Please try those steps and carefully check wiring continuity and any mechanism failures. The best thing to do is just in case youre having trouble with the test you can bring the pump to any washer technician and have them test the pump just in case. This will be easier than bringing the entire machine to be serviced and will help you determine easily if the pump needs to be replaced. Let me know if you need the steps on removing the pump and replacing it just in case. Thanks

Thanks for the reply. If the pump showed continuity at 18 then theres no problem with the pumps continuity electricity is coming through. Have you checked where the empeller sits just between the motor and the blades if theres any lose material? You also mentioned motor was warm when you took the pump, there could be a tendency that the motor became too hot. Motor becoming too hot means that its has gone bad. Letting it go through the process and checking the amount of heat the motor produces can verify this.

Can you try to wiggle the impeller blade back and forth if it wiggles and try to rotate the blades again if it spind easy to hard. I'm thinking that when the motor turns, the blades eventually turns and sometimes does not if its trying to pump out the water.

I cannot say freely since it is attached to the motor. The motor should be the one turning the blades if it is a bit lose then there will be a tendency that the motor is rotating the blade but when the water goes into the pump, its volume stressess the blade and stops it from spinning since it is lightly attached to the motor (indicates wiggling). This indicates a defective impeller. An impeller that wiggles also indicates that its already broken.

I'm sorry but already checked that a few days ago and the part replacement is the whole thing according to the manufacturer and parts replacement stores. Could have been better if they could only provide the part that you need. Have you already found a replacement online? Please let me know if you have any additional questions so I may be able to provide you some information before we end this conversation. Thanks.

Will do a follow up sometime after the weekend. Thank you for the update.